I finally became one of those Sunday surfer the weekened warrior as we often call them………
bless them they call up the shop 11am asking where the best place to surf is
with their hangovered-beer-breath and no idea of weather system or the tides…we always oblige….
so despite my 7.30 start all the promised bodies that wanted to cram into my car, raising the unwakeable, many phone calls and a couple of cliks later everyone was swearing “not worth it” ..
so I got onto my new secret-saunton weapond Sam who lives there and was coming off night-shift at the local hospital ..he confirmed it was likely and we were on our way only 4 of us…. I packed a couple of Monsters one paddle and their sticks
5 boards 3 adults one kid no hangovers 11 am we head up north…
meet with Sam \Honza and Nick up there.
plenty of wave for beginners on neaps (that’s a tide)…
I paddled out encouraged by the whistling of the Hawaii 5-0 music I stand up and paddle with my c4 carbon blade….
I don’t rip into the guys best waves of the day I track honza call out the sets and make friends with those lying on their bellys….
Honza I said I’m a Sunday surfer ..”what’s wrong with that” he says
we had fun..that’s what sundays are for!
